因为青年旅馆离京都市中心比较远,所以安妮和林欣决定头两天先在京都周边的嵐山、大原、嵯峨野、東映太秦映画村这些比较近的地方转转,最后两天一天去奈良,最后一天在京都市内走走。
放下了行李,她们拿了地图和相机出门坐巴士去大原的三千院。
下了车在去往三千院的山路上拾级而上,满山的翠色扑面而来。沿路有不少卖纪念品的民艺品店,所卖的东西大同小异,做工都十分精巧。安妮挑了一家叫做もろしろ的,这里要经营一些用和纸做的小工艺品。安妮说要给妈妈买一样礼物寄到美国去。
林欣自己看中了一只樱花色底子印着白色小兔子的去油纸小夹子(あぶらとりケース),正拿起来翻来复去地看,坐在收银台后面的女店起身走过来问到: ldquo;小姐是哪里人? rdquo;
ldquo;中国人。 rdquo;林欣笑了笑说。
妇人吃了一惊,随即告诉林欣,三年前她被邀请到无锡参加一个盆景交流活动,她们的代表团经过市内时,那个路段的交通部门专门为他们暂停了所有车辆的通过。
ldquo;无锡人真是热情啊! rdquo;妇人很感概地说。
她又絮絮叨叨告诉林欣她叫岸下君子,是从关东地嫁过来的。岸下这个姓是只有在大原这一带才有的姓。
这时安妮也挑好了她的礼物----一把轻巧的折扇。
岸下君子细心地用两张淡蓝色的包装纸把二人买的东西包好,又在上面各贴了一朵和纸做的红叶做装饰。林欣和安妮都夸包装上贴的红叶漂亮,岸下君子听了忙用一只小塑料袋给林欣和安妮各装了些,还另装了些秋樱(コスモス)。林欣告诉她自己最喜欢山口惠唱的《コスモス》,岸下君子简直高兴极了。
她一直将两人送到店门口才鞠躬告辞。
ldquo;日本的东西,包装可真雅致! rdquo;林欣端详着自己手里的小包说, ldquo;中国的包装可没有这么讲究! rdquo;
ldquo;我们美国的包装也没这么麻烦!日本的包装,好看是好看,就是太浪费了!随便买个什么小东西,都得兴师动众地包上好几层。少用点包装纸,东西还能便宜点呢! rdquo;
ldquo;安妮,你小时候怎么不跟你妈妈学日语呢? rdquo;林欣早就想问安妮这个问题了。
ldquo;我也不知道!反正我妈没教我。 rdquo;安妮耸耸肩说。
ldquo;我小时候住在佐治亚。我们住的那个地方没什么亚洲人。小学那会儿因为我和别的孩子长得不一样,大家都不跟我玩。只有一个黑人小女孩跟我玩。我爸知道了特别不高兴,他说黑人都没有教养。 rdquo;
林欣听了便说: ldquo;很多中国人也这么想。 rdquo;
ldquo;唉,我爸这种想法让我觉得挺羞耻的。不过 rdquo;安妮喘口气,接着说: ldquo;我大一的时候和一个黑人是室友,她还真是不怎么样! rdquo;
林欣不禁想到以前店长说的:哪个国家都有好人,哪个国家也都有不好的人。
三千院是一所很大的寺院。非常朴素,没有雕梁画栋。进入大殿之前要将鞋子脱下来,放在寺里准备的塑料袋子里。安妮和林欣都赞道:日本真是个清洁的国家。寺外的山林里满眼苍翠,耳边是鸟鸣和潺潺的溪流声。这才是真正的世外桃源!
午餐她们选了一家名为 ldquo;吕川茶屋 rdquo;的小饭馆。若有若无的三味线曲子,榻榻米的坐席,林欣恍若是置身于《伊豆舞女》的时代。两人都点了京野菜うど(蔬菜乌冬面),配着黄的南瓜、绿的菠菜和微带紫色的紫蘇,蘸着人自制的用多种小鱼熬成的汤,还有用芋头汁和生鸡蛋拌的とろろ。在京都,一切品牌都被冠以 ldquo;京 rdquo;---京菓子(点心)、京人形(娃娃)、京扇子、京味噌、京仏具(佛具)连个 ldquo;都 rdquo;都懒得说,因为骄傲的京都人认为只有京都的日语才是最正统的,京都人才是最懂礼仪的,京都的生活才是最优雅的,总之,京都是独一无二的。京都才是真正的日本。在中国大概北京人也有类似的优越感吧。林欣的表哥就最不喜欢《故乡是北京》那个歌。
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subsup& / m:narylim m:val=& undovr& / m:mathpr w:worddot xml ![endif]-- !--[if gte mso 9] xml w:latentstyles deflockedstate=& false& defunhidewherue& defsemihidden=& true& defqformat=& false& defpriority=& 99& latentstylet=& 267& w:lsdexception locked=& false& priority=& & semihidden=& false& unhidewhenused=& false& qformat=& true& name=& normal& / w:lsdexception locked=& false& priority=& 9& semihidden=& false& unhidewhenused=& false& qformat=& true& name=& heading & / w:lsdexception locked=& false& priority=& 9& qformat=& true& name=& heading 2& / w:lsdexception locked=& false& priority=& 9& qformat=& true& name=& heading 3& / w:lsdexception locked=& false& priority=& 9& qformat=& true& name=& heading 4& / w:lsdexception locked=& false& priority=& 9& qformat=& true& name=& heading 5& / w:lsdexception locked=& false& priority=& 9& qformat=& true& name=& heading 6& / w:lsdexception locked=& false& priority=& 9& qformat=& true& name=& heading 7& / w:lsdexception locked=& false& 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